René Redzepi Plans to Close Noma and Reopen It as an Urban Farm. “Welcome to the new Noma,” the chef René Redzepi said on a bright summer day. “This is it.” Mr. Redzepi, 37, the godfather of the New Nordic movement and the chef at Noma, arguably the world’s most influential restaurant at the moment, was standing outside what looked like an auditorium-size crack den. Used spray-paint cans lay in heaps amid the weeds of an abandoned lot. Street art covered the walls of an empty warehouse; inside, teenagers rumbled around on skateboards. World-class culinary destination? The site, right outside the ragged border of this city’s freewheeling Christiania neighborhood, seemed more like the Four Seasons after an apocalypse.